Tables for Two · #4 · Soup Dumpling Benchmark

莱莱小笼 · 乔艾 (Lai Lai Xiao Long)

The reigning benchmark for crab-roe soup dumplings (xiaolongbao) in central Shanghai: tissue-thin skins sagging with golden crab oil, paired with a Shanghai-style pork chop and Worcestershire sauce.

Lai Lai Xiao Long
Hand-pleated crab-roe xiaolongbao on Tianjin Road. The storefront at 506 Tianjin Road.

On Tianjin Road, a narrow lane two blocks off the pedestrian clamor of East Nanjing Road, bamboo steamers at Lai Lai stack to the ceiling. Korean, English, French, and Shanghainese overlap in the dining room for one reason: the crab roe is hand-picked daily, yielding a golden, intensely savory broth inside a gossamer wrapper.

Always add the crispy Shanghai pork chop splashed with spicy-sour Taikang Worcestershire sauce. Note the strict 2:00–3:00 P.M. afternoon break when the kitchen pauses to fold the evening batch.